Ciao! 

Have you been to the Dolomites? They’re a spectacular mountain range of 18 peaks in the northeast of Italy. Their dramatic, vertical limestone peaks and deep valleys are some of the most beautiful mountains in the world. But don’t just trust me! Ask UNESCO.

I wrote all about them on Be a Better Traveler, so check it out for a full guide, including lots of ski huts you can reach via gondola, aka with a baby in tow and not on skis. Après and mountain lunches, in the midst of the mountains, with minimal effort. 

You’ll find family-friendly hiking recommendations at the end of this post. 

We were lucky to live a quick drive from the mountains in Vicenza, meaning we could take day trips to hike in Belluno or an overnight to hike Tre Cime. We spent a month in Val Gardena in February 2024, getting to know the valley and surrounding area. And we were back for the Olympics this February, even though (sadly) we no longer live in Italy. 

It’s one of my favorite parts of Italy and despite being known for skiing and hut-to-hut hiking, it is actually very child friendly.

That’s partly because of kinderhotels. 

They’re hotels designed specifically for families. Think play areas, children’s amenities, rooms stocked with baby equipment, strollers and baby bike seats on loan, kids’ activities all day long, and, perhaps most importantly for parents, on-site childcare.

They’re often all-inclusive, but in a way that feels different than an all-inclusive Caribbean vacation. Nothing wrong with those, but kinderhotels are often in the mountains, in areas with skiing, hiking and other activities. There’s more to do nearby, typically, so the hotel is an amazing part of the trip without being the trip. While meals can be included, it’s not expected that you’ll spend all of your time at the hotel. In fact, parents are encouraged to get out into the great outdoors or into town for a long lunch, while kids take cooking classes, go on nature walks and much more. 

I was invited to stay at the AKI Family Resort in Plose, Italy (in the Dolomites) last winter. Stella was seven months old and I was intrigued because the hotel was new and because many of these hotels don’t provide care for babies. Ages range, but the kids’ clubs are often for ages two or three and up. 

We loved it so much. 

The hotel, from luxury hotel brand Adler, sits amid the Dolomites in Bressanone and prizes its connection to nature. From the natural wood furniture (the resort is plastic-free) to the kids’ programs in the forest and the adults-only spa overlooking the mountains, the resort feels far from city life. 

From the moment you arrive kids are catered to—there’s a play structure right at check-in and they’ve been thought of in every detail. Rooms have child-size beds and sinks, kids’ towels, and robes for all ages. On request, the hotel offers baby bouncers, cribs, baby baths and other equipment. Bathrooms throughout the hotel have changing tables, and there are amenities like breastfeeding booths, baby formula and baby food at designated ‘baby bars’, bottle warmers, diapers and more.

You’ll want to spend time at the pool. It’s spacious and the outdoor area has stunning views over the Dolomites. But there are also large water slides and a baby splash pad area. Kids can even take part in a warm, not too hot, sauna and get kids’ massages. 

Adults, however, shouldn’t miss the sauna and spa nestled in the forest, and should take part in the daily sauna ritual where a coach leads groups through timed sessions of increasingly hotter temperatures.

Each family is assigned a table for the duration of their stay and kids get Stokke high chairs and special bibs and silverware, depending on their age. The buffet—an extensive feast of Alpine and international dishes—has lower tables with dishes at children’s reach and step stools so kids can stand and watch the kitchen. Obviously, Stella wasn’t old enough for most of this at the time, but the other kids there seemed to love picking out their own food and watching the chefs at work from stools set by a large window. 

If you’re here for a ski vacation, there’s on-site ski and toboggan rental and ski lessons. The hotel even has its own kids’ ski slope. For smaller children, the AKI offers baby backpacks or heavy duty Thule strollers that can traverse snowy hiking trails. Outside of skiing, kids can take part in painting and other craft workshops, learn to cook and more as part of the kids’ club. That runs from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m., which are also the childcare hours. That means adults can have a cocktail at the bar, take on the slopes, or enjoy dinner on their own.

Not everything is structured. There’s a petting zoo with goats and alpacas, and a large outdoor play area that can be visited anytime. Indoors, the play barn offers opportunities to climb ropes and suspension bridges. 

Toddlers are kept safe in their own designated play area with lots of space to roam. Meanwhile, teens get a special ‘chill’ area where they can play air hockey and ping pong and get away from their younger sibings.

One of the main reasons for booking a kinderhotel is for the childcare. AKI is one of the few kinderhotels that offers the service for babies under one-year-old. Babies as young as 30 days are welcome in a separate room of the daycare from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. Or, you can organize individual childcare for a fee.

Family trips are about family memories, but sometimes, different family members have different needs. Kinderhotels help families of all ages and sizes help facilitate actual fun for the whole family. 

AKI was so great. I was nervous to leave Stella with the childcare for even three hours, because I had never left her before, but everyone was so sweet and when I returned she was napping in a stork-like swing. She was too young for many of the amenities, but every touch (the tiny towel! The highchair set to her size without us having to say anything! The splash pad pool! The baby food!) made it such a fun experience and made us feel really cared for as parents. I can’t wait to return now that she’s older and will enjoy the activities, s’mores, water slide, baby spa, and everything else. 

Woody Walk in Plose 

The Woody Walk is a great, family-friendly hike. Take the Plose cable car and from the top follow the well-marked trail. It has a slide, trees marked specifically for climbing, carved animals and other “adventure stations” along the way.  I’m sure it’s extra fun and gorgeous in the summer, but we went on a snowy day with low visibility and it was still beautiful. It would be easy to do with a baby carrier. We took a jogging stroller on recommendation from the AKI and there were a few times I had to push extra hard, but it was doable even in the snow. Reward yourself with kaiserschmarrn and local wine at Rossalm. 

Tre Cime 

The Tre Cime di Lavaredo are probably the most iconic Dolomite peaks. They’re pretty amazing up close. The loop around them is about six miles. Bring water and snacks, or cash. The rifugio at the halfway point is cash only. The last third of the path is steep and narrow, and the very last bit has a steep dropoff on your right. This made me nervous, especially because we had Stella in a backpack. Reviews had made it seem pretty easy, and it wasn’t difficult necessarily, just a little sketchy. Then again, I’m afraid of heights, so maybe it’s not. There were plenty of other families. We were so hungry by the end that we ate at the restaurant in the parking lot, which I do not recommend. So, maybe this isn’t the most baby-friendl hike, but thought you should know this intel. Pack lots of snacks and wear grippy shoes!

Fuciade

Walk to Rifugio Fuciade in San Pellegrino Pass. Park either at San Pellegrino Pass or a little closer at Albergo Miralago. This walk to the rifugio takes about an hour, first through the forest before opening to sweeping mountain views about halfway in. I took Stella in the carrier and we saw parents with sleds and some serious looking strollers. I’m not sure if a stroller would make it the whole way, but with a carrier it’s 100% doable. The rifugio has a small playground outside.  

Val Gardena/Ortisei Walking Path 

There’s probably a name for this, but it’s the main walking path between the towns. It goes to other towns as well. Nice views, good for running, biking or taking the stroller. Stella and I did this walk with the stroller or carrier almost every day for a month.

Vallunga in Val Gardena

The most popular hike here is a short out and back walk. It’s mostly flat and easy for most abilities (though not super stroller-friendly as some areas are narrow). There’s a more challenging route (much steeper) into the forest. I’m not finding the exact trail on the map, but if you start from the same parking lot and aim toward Stevia Hutte you should see signs. I did both with a carrier. 

Walk around the lake in Auronzo di Cadore 

A lovely lake walk. Very easy. Stay at Albergo Juventus, which has a playground and bar right on the lake. 

Bonus:

The Sentiero Viola is a paved biking path (great for strollers) that runs from Bormio to Semogo. It’s not always fully shoveled in winter, so maybe better with a baby carrier, but you can at least do parts of it around Semogo and Isolacca with a stroller. And in Bormio, the public thermal baths right near the city center are so fun! Not as luxurious as the QC or other hotel baths, but cheap for a half-day pass and they have a splash pool for toddlers, a large slide for older kids and an adults-only area.

For restaurants and other recommendations, see this guide.